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Ramrod

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Everything posted by Ramrod

  1. Has this issue been solved? It looks like the leak is further forward at the #2 fuel tank. Have you filled the tank to about 50% full and ten no loaded the wings to flex the wing? It looks like a cracked wing plank under #2 fuel tank. I have a simular incident with a C-130E, 62-1826 while flying to Japan from California. No signs of a fuel leak on the ground but leaked in flight. At Yokoda, they no loaded the wings and behold, a fuel leak. A 4" crack span wise in the #3 lower plank.
  2. You have to refer to the 1C-130A-3 for guidance. If you find nothing there, you must request technical assistance from Lockheed. It is known that those screws strip out and the elevator torque tube collar bolt holes get elongated. The only repair for the torque tube collar issue is replacement. I do not think using oversized bolts were authorized, but I am not 100% sure on this.
  3. Well here is my two cents worth. Have you tried pulling the anti-skid circuit breaker and see if the problem still exists? If not, then I'd check all the wiring from the strut to the wheel well overhead terminal strip at WL 165. The terminal strip does get very dirty and possibly corroded terminals. But I would be looking for something loose as in a loose terminal, bad crimp on a terminal end, loose terminal nut. To me, in reading this post it seems vibration is a source. Also look for splices where there should not be any. Check all grounds.
  4. Ah yes, 4010, 64-0526. That aircraft was repaired and at some point given to the 146th AW/115th AS as replacement for 61-2373 that was crashed in KY while on loan to Littlerock. 64-0526 was the only 64 yr. model we had and that presented supply issues. The aircraft it's self was one that crews complained about not flying straight. I am not a pilot and can not verify that fact, just reporting what was stated then. 0526 was a temperamental bird. This aircraft was transferred to Puerto Rico ANG after a few years. The aircraft was sent to WR/ALC for depot and scrapped there. I do not know how long Puerto Rico NG owned the aircraft but I remember is was short lived. Puerto Rico also had 61-2369 transferred from the 146AW. 369, I worked on and was a good aircraft. Flew reasonable well as I was told. It was an aircraft that was passed around a lot and needed some TLC but maintenance wise was good. Transferred to PR ANG after about 6 months and it too was scrapped at WR/ALC shortly thereafter.
  5. Herky400; dueing my days with the ANG, the A-6 stated Prop. service check every 15 day. Now the prefered method is by the unpressurized sump and long dip stick. However, this involves 2 people to perform and is more accurate and prevents lip seal leaks in my experience. Checking and servicing via the pressurized sump is easier.
  6. Why not run the engine and prop and then pitch lock the prop? Check in normal and mechanical modes. This should isolate a prop/engine problem from the indication problem. If it is stable in pitch lock it may be the valve housing if all other indications are stable. If it still flux's, then the RGB drive pads are suspect. We had a drive pad go/no go gage for the square drive of the Tac. Gen pad.
  7. When I was crewing C-130E's with SCNS we experienced this same problem. If my memory has not failed me, it seems problems stemmed in the FDMS panel and the NIRP panel relays. The one thing that is not present on the ground that is present inflight is all the vibrations associated with the prop's. Those mini relays in the NIRP panel are known weak links and fail often, many times intermittent operation. In the FDMS panel it was wiring or the VG switch it's self, weak contacts and intermittent operation. Good luck. Tap or test the relays and check all your wiring at the FDMS panel and the VG switch.
  8. The shear pin is actually a AN-12 bolt and it is the bolt that attaches the tow fitting to the NLG strut. This bolt allows tow weights up to 95,000Lbs. The torque arms, if not disconnected, has a limit of 30 degree turn limit or the black limit line on the fuselage just behind the nose radome.
  9. Depending on where you are, I do not think you should have any problem getting a one time flight to the nearest repair facility. Although you will have to fly gear down all the way. That will suck. Just state all your facts as you presented it to me and address the problem as the system indicates properly when the down lock witch is backed off and the gear is in the up position. You also should describe the red light in the weather it is on of off thru these same steps. Possible NLG down lock indicating pin malfunction. You can also call LMCO Tech support or the SPO at Warner Robbins ALC if you have a phone available.
  10. If the down lock switch is properly adjusted as per the Job Guide, and the switch mount bracket has never been damaged or locally manufactured and replaced with a non LMCO part or suitable spare, then the only thing left is the actuator down lock internals. There is a emergency spring that also works with the HYDs in the down lock pin that could be defective in someway. I tried to look for a actuator overhaul book, but could not find one. By backing off the down lock switch and the indications operate correctly substantiates your theory of the down lock pin in the actuator having the problem. Only a actuator replacement will fix it unless you can overhaul it yourself. I stand corrected on the power for the up and down lock switches. Power is applied directly from the buss to the indicators and red light and only needs a selected ground to complete the circuit to the light or the indicator. The MLG handle controls the MLG selector valve. A 4.Adjust NLG down lock switch (2) as follows: a. With NLG down and locked, position down lock switch (2) to just contact indicating plunger (7) then seat jamnuts (3, 5) against support assembly. b. Backoff jamnut (3) two to two and one half turns. c. Push switch forward and tighten jamnut (5). Safetywire jamnuts (3, 5) together. 32-24-
  11. When you position the MLG control handle to up, power is removed from the all the down switches and the applied to the up switches. Since the up switch ground contact is already closed, the red light in the handle should come on immediately. Power removed from the down switches now provides an open circuit to the indicator and the indicator should move to barber pole. Once the gear is fully retracted, then up switch is depressed opening the ground for the red light in the handle and the red light goes out and at the same time the up switch ground for the indicator is closed to complete the circuit and the indicator moves to up. Your problem seems to be the indicator its self. It should go to barber pole when you turn off acft. power. A MLG control panel replacement should fix this problem. The NG indicator seems to be stuck or burned out.
  12. I agree with tenten- this makes perfect sense. If after takeoff you lose power in one engine and have not reached obstacle clearance altitude and speeds, the crew action is to retract the gear with in 3 seconds and feather the prop within 6 seconds to reduce drag and attain better climb and acceleration performance. None of this is intended to state that the gear or NLG is to be fully retracted with in 3 seconds. Normal gear retraction time is 13 to 19 seconds, MLG 15 to 19 seconds.
  13. Retraction times from down to full up taken from the Job guide. Same for J model. NLG 13 to 19 seconds MLG 15 to 19 seconds. I do not have access to a H-6CF-1 to read the 3 second statement. Nothing in the J books say anything about 3 seconds that I could find.
  14. The time limit I believe is being misinterpreted. It is meant to say the time the gear takes to retract should be no longer then 3 seconds otherwise you may have a potentially bypassing actuator or a flow restriction in the hyd. lines. The main landing gear also has a time limit in the JG during retraction test. This is for a given pressure (3000PSI) and a given flow rate (16GPM I believe). This tests the efficiency of the actuator or the MLG HYD motors for bypassing, mechanical binding or a restriction in the hyd. system. The Nose gear doors are all mechanically actuated by the NLG actuator thru the NLG strut at the fulcrum area. Front to rear door timing is set by shims between the forward and aft. actuating arms. MLG retraction: Power is applied to the up or down switches by the position of the MLG control handle. All 6 MLG switches provide 2 ground paths, one for the MLG indication and one for the red light in the handle. The up switches are powered when the handle is place in the up position and the down switches are powered when the handle is placed in the down position. At any given time, only one ground is set. If the gear is selected up and the MLG is currently in the down position, the up switch ground for the red light is already closed and the up indication is open. The red light should come on immediately and the position indicator has no ground and seeks a neutral position (barber pole). When the gear is retracted the switch is depressed, that opens the ground for the red light and closes the ground for the MLG indicator and the indicator is powered and indicates up. The operation is the same for down indications when the down switches are selected by the MLG control handle. (indicator indicates wheels) If the up indication indicates up immediately when the MLG control handle place to the up position and the gear is currently down, this indicates a problem with the up switch internally (most common) or a short circuit. The same is true for down indication malfunctions. All open grounds show up as a barber pole (most common, broken during acft. Wash or recent MLG maintenance, stuck switch plunger, shorted switch). Testing of the red light in the handle requires each gear position to be tested one at a time, and from both the up position and the down position. There are other warnings that tie into the MLG control system also ( warning horn, flap and throttle position switches, squat switches) so be familiar with the Job guide. I also remember a TCTO or a instructions some years ago to paint the NLG mechanical down indicator fluorescent orange. It did not matter if the factory color was red or white, it was to be painted fluorescent orange. I hope this helps.
  15. Ignore the cargo door until the ramp is rigged completely. Then troubleshoot the cargo door. Make sure your lock/unlock pressures are with in the tolerance specified in the JG. When complete, the cargo ramp, when locking, should NOT shift to one side or another or pull in the sloping longeron's. On the cargo door, look at the cargo #2 L & R saddles. Check for deep divots or wear. These are the only saddles that should have zero (0) gap. Saddles 4,6,8 & 10 should have a gap, check the JG for the proper clearance. One telltale sign of excessive wear on the #2 cargo door saddle(s) is wear or divot on the cargo door lock saddle. Steve posted a good check on the phenolic blocks on the cargo door where it meets the ramp. Also I have seen thick sealant across the entire width of the ramp/door seal contact area. Maybe you need to cut out the sealant where the blocks contact the ramp. It has been my experience that a properly rigged ramp and door and a good pressurization seal, there is no need for sealant across the width of the ramp, only the corners need sealant, and normally it is not that thick.
  16. Open the cargo door and take a look at the #2 L & R saddles for divots and wear. Check for proper gaps in all the other stations (4 thru 10) Over time this wear will allow the Cargo door to drop lower. The ramp is normally rigged first then the door. If only one shim is under ramp lock station 10 and the cargo door is being pushed up, that tells me to look at the cargo door rigging. Cargo ramp gap issues at stations 2 & 4 can sometime be traced back to ramp hinge bushings worn and/or not properly installed parallel to the ground. If all this checks out good, contact LMCO for assistance. Also keep an eye on your lock and unlock pressures as stated in the Job guide as this will let you know if you have the proper cargo ramp lock #10 preload. Check for excessive amounts of sealant on the cargo ramp where the cargo door seal sits. Many times this has to be removed to rig the ramp and cargo door. One more important step, were the ramp lock saddles removed? If so, you may have to identify if the proper saddle is in the proper position. They all have very slightly different angles and they are not too noticeable to the naked eye. Part numbers have also been known to be wrong in the past. Depot had issues with installing the wrong saddles in the wrong positions in the past. I believe this is also in the job guide and a tool for checking them is either in the 52 series JG or the -OO-GE. I hope this helps. Ramrod
  17. I would check the brake shuttle valves before replacing any other parts. There is one shuttle valve on each brake. This is another place the emerg. and normal brake systems tie together.
  18. Additional Info: Here is the inspection and stenciling requirements for aircraft shoulder harness, troop seatbelts, lap belts and air crew harness. T.O.13A1-1-1. In this T.O. are the requirements for a visual inspection prior to installation, stenciling of the installed date on the shoulder harness, Lap belts, Troop seatbelts and aircrew harness, weight testing and repair. 13 year mandatory replacement of troop seatbelts part numbers 56E590, 56E559-10, 9841781-1 and 9841781-3. Shoulder harness lap belts is also 13 year mandatory replacement.
  19. The technical order you are looking for is 13A6-59-13 for one and two man troop seats. This T.O. give all inspection requirements, repairs and replacement parts. For the cockpit crew seats on the J model, the parts are listed in the 1C-130J-4-25-1. There is a 13A6-??-? series T.O. for the Ipeco seats but as I remember, the information is pretty much the same as what is in the 1C-130J-4-25-1.
  20. This question is off subject, however if I am not mistaken, in the 1C-130E or H-49JG series job guide or the GTC overhaul manual there is a starter slip clutch check and adjustment that can be done. If this adjustment is too tight, it will blow the 200 amp current limiter repeatedly even if you are constantly replacing starters. This issue also happens on the J model APU also, with an APU ACAWS of some sort. It has been a few years since I have worked either aircraft.
  21. Was this issue resolved? I re-read your initial post and you never stated that you have had to manually reset the asymmetry brake valve on the utility Hyd. panel. This leads me to believe that the issue is an electrical intermittent problem common to both the up switch and the down switch in the cam/switch assembly on the flap drive. Looking at the 1C-130J-2-00WD-00-1 figure 3-75, power feeds from the #8 ECBU to the cable fail detect switch then to terminal strip TB 505L Terminal 1, the to the can/switch assembly thru wire C100F20-2. I'd check for power, loose terminals/screws. Check for power. Check the grounds and check that the rollers on the switch followers are not improperly adjusted by being bent at the arm instead of the switch actuation tab. Also quite frequently we found pins at the cannon plugs recessed (either not properly installed in the cannon plug and locked in place or missing the pin lock). For some reason, very common in the J's. Ramrod
  22. Question- do the flaps stop working and display an ACAWS (C-130J) like flap cable? I found on the J models that the cable break switch located around F.S 450-460RH overhead to be adjusted a little to sensitive. You must verify the cables are at the proper tension and adjust the switch tab IAW 1C-130J-2-27JG-50-1. Para 27-51-36. It could be that the cables are bouncing and whipping and triggering the switch which then trips the flap assem. brake valve. Just a thought. Ramrod
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