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tinyclark

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Everything posted by tinyclark

  1. Blueprints like you are looking for don't really exist. The drawings that comprise the building of the C130 are fundamentally in complete disarray, as far as I am concerned. There are no overall dimensional drawings except for what is in the front of most of our books. Any drawings that show outside structure may have a contour drawing cited. These contour drawings are the work of the devil. Maybe they did it this way to keep the Russians from building their own C130s.
  2. The only '73 the newer system is installed on is 73-3300.
  3. I have a 2AS patch from Pope, that's it.
  4. I used to give to the PVA all the time, but no more. Speaking of charities, there were guys out in front of walmart here a few weeks ago in unmatched fatigues with nothing on them, collecting money for veterans. They didn't look like veterans to me. They had photo IDs that said VETERAN on them. The manager said they were legit, but I should have called them out, I think it was a scam.
  5. The H-2-13 wiring diagrams show the 697638-3 part number in the 74 and ups. This part number converts to the 3213722-2-1, which is replaced by the -5-1. The H-2-21GS-1 explains the difference between the E-models and 74-1658 & Up.
  6. 27241301, or 695813-1, 4820-00-006-5087
  7. I wish I could get someone to listen to me about the 60 day IFF check. I have been told that it needs to be checked per FAA requirements, due to Mode C altitude and TCAS operation. I have looked in the FAA regs and haven't seen such a requirement. My argument is that the Mode C is checked on every flight, because it is always on, and incorrect altitude info will be reported to the crew. When that happens, we use the TTU205 to run up the altitude and check the alticoder info. Mode C problems don't occur very often at all. That 60 day check is totally unnecessary and it borders the idiotic fence line. I brought this up at the -6 conference last year, but it fell on deaf ears. Now, since they wrote the test procedure for the new TS4530 Transponder, the TTU205 must be hooked up when performing an IFF check. We can get around that by doing an IFF self test, but that never should have been put in the book that way. They rarely talk to any knowledgeable maintenance people before making changes like that.
  8. I can send you the drawing if i can find it. We had one at Ramstein that had it and it was going to the Rodeo, so they removed it.
  9. It was part of the old stall warning system. I've seen several that we pulled off. The wire numbers that go to it should be labeled MONA XXX-XX. many aircraft still have stall warning horns installed, right below the bottom of the pilot's instrument panel. There was never a TCTO issued that completely removed everything. Kind of like the Life history recorder TCTO that left the flight surface position indicators in. Not indicators, transmitters. Geeze...
  10. If you are at Moody, come over to my office in the ISO hanger and I'll give you what is in Lars' book. Tiny
  11. That's always been my problem, never asking for enough...
  12. Sure, just start here, and work through about 5 or so thousand drawings, and you'll get your total number. That sounds like something they could have me do until I retire on 1/1/2011. Of course, I'd need an extra government grant to get the job done, say $1.5 mil.
  13. I sent you a private message for an e-mail address.
  14. Part number is 344444-4R & -4L, which is what that drawing number is that I posted. We lived in Travis housing when I was in the eigth grade, circa '68. There was an elementry school right outside the housing area that I ran my go kart up to. I remember the processing plant, because if the wind blew just right, the smell was gawdawful.
  15. It's probably the smell from the onion plant, if it's still there.
  16. TCTO 1124 was for the access panel under the door sill. Drawing 346010 is for ramp drainage, and the ECO to 353612 added two drainholes at the bottom of the ramp bulkhead on either side of BL 0. Shown is the drawing of the access panel at the end of the belly band. There is no ECO for it, at least not in JEDMICS... yet.
  17. tinyclark

    C27j

    Speakin' of the C27, anyone know what guns they are putting on the C27 gunship?
  18. As I said, the JEDMICS drawing shows no holes.
  19. tinyclark

    C27j

    I know, not a C130, but the roll is impressive about 1 minute into the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhslurKZulA
  20. I checked my rescinded TCTO list and didn't find anything. They haven't changed the drawing either, and I checked the J-model IPB, it's the same.
  21. tinyclark

    Tdy's

    Yes, I remember Orsini's as well. Had a 5 course dinner there, and with the wine and all it was about 10 bucks a head, and very good.
  22. Just updated my bio as well. Never went out to the Legion, but went to the R&G Club quite a few times. Couldn't beat the $2.95 for a dozen escargot and the cheap beer. There was a guy there that used to perform Cat Stevens' songs, he was pretty good, or maybe that was the beer.
  23. Phantom, I was at Ramstein for 6 years, 2001-2007, Rhein Main for 4 years, 1977-1981, and Spangdahlem for 4 years, 1969-1973. I Love Germany, but I don't think I will ever fly that far on an airplane again. Prost!!
  24. OK, here's why I think the fuse is blowing, or at least a feasable explaination. Of course, this may be all crap I just made up. When you quickly bump the switch, the voltage in the motor winding keeps builds up, then collapses, builds up, collapses. When voltage in a coil collapses, its polarity is reversed. So, get lucky and bump quickly enough, and you have +28VDC going into a coil with a negative voltage on it. Since the left side is used much more that the right side on a normal basis, and this has been done over many years, I think the left side 4 gauge wire has broken down somewhere and can't handle that current load caused by the switch bumping. 1. Tell the Loadies to stop bumping the switch or you'll paint their leather jackets with shiny black radome paint. 2. You could swap the 4 gauge wire at the fuses and C1 of the power relays. That will tell you if the wire is good. Even if both of them won't reach, you should be able to use one of those wires on the other system. 3. Install a 100 amp limiter and the exact problem will undoubtedly surface. Keep an extinguisher handy.
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