Ben Legere

I can't find a reference anywhere...

It's either your rudder diverter valve, rudder pressure reducer or rudder pressure relief valve. Crawl up on the cargo door and listen to the squeal when the flaps go up. You can back the pressure reducer out about 1/4 turn and the squeal will go away or you can adjust the relief valve up a little. If either adjustment doesn't get rid of the squeal you may as well just replace the diverter valve... Pull the flap control C/B and move the handle up and you will still hear the squeal, it's coming from your rudder diverter panel. The squeal is usually caused when the relief valve and pressure reducer open within 100psi or so of eachother and the back pressure causes them to fight eachother

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2183[/ATTACH] The 105 is still installed. You can just barely see it at the leading edge of the horizontal stab, it's just hard to see at the angle that the picture was taken from.

http://herkybirds.com/content.php?202-Photo-of-the-Week-08-Nov-2010 I found it

That's an AC-130H. Quite possibly... 69-6572?

If your ATM drops down to 350hz you are not having an electrical problem. Run an engine and use that bleed air to run your ATM and see if the problem persists. If your ATM continues to go off line with bleed air from an engine the problem lies in your ATM itself(not the generator), if it goes away with an engine running you have a sticky load control valve that is allowing the ATM to drop off-line because it can't get enough bleed air to sustain full RPM. Good luck. If you can't run an engine at the time just watch the bleed air gage by the nav's table to see if it drops off when you turn the Aux pump on. It should stay steady and not move at all but if it moves even the slightest bit your load control valve is not opening up fast enough to keep up with your ATM. One more thing: We also had a problem with the ATM dropping off line with a load applied a few years back and found the ATM plug lodged in the cooling fan.

I don't have a -1 with me at the moment but there is a blurp in it about not having full system pressure until the engines are up-sped. This is one of those common sense things that you won't find an actual reference for kind of like when the flap lines "shake" when you run the flaps through or the #3 tail pipe "vibration".

A few years back I read something about how the plastic chocks were not rated for the C-130 for power runs but I can't find it anywhere now. It was some TO that had aircraft parking and mooring and a bunch of other stuff. I tried finding it today but had no success whatsoever... I thought that it was in the 1-1A-17 or 00-25-??? TO but I just can't find it anywhere.

That's an easy fix. The start switch may have worn or has dirty contacts. If you are getting power through it you may not be getting enough amperage to the starter control valve. Try swapping the switch out. It works most of the time.

If you push the button it goes to 3,000psi. It's a quick way to check to see if the valve is stuck or not getting power. Allot of times you can just tap that button when the valve is stuck and unseat it.

It all depends on where you are landing, on a dirty runway or cement you have a pretty good chance of locking up a brake and blowing a tire but if you land on asphalt your chances of a successful landing are a little better. The aft tires will blow first. I'd say that it is at least a 50% chance of blowing a tire.

Haha, that's an easy one. Check your bleed valves. Close your engine bleed then check the engine anti-ice to see if you get a 24 degree rise. If you get less than 24 degrees TIT rise, lets say it only rises 18 degrees you have a stuck bleed valve, if you get no rise at all your anti-ice valve is stuck open or your bleeds are just stuck open. Check it in null too. Does it have oil cooler augmentation?

Haha, that's an easy one. Check your bleed valves. Close your engine bleed then check the engine anti-ice to see if you get a 24 degree rise. If you get less than 24 degrees TIT rise, lets say it only rises 18 degrees you have a stuck bleed valve, if you get no rise at all your anti-ice valve is stuck open or your bleeds are just stuck open. Check it in null too. Does it have oil cooler augmentation?

Have you tried balancing the prop? A prop balance won't do much for helping but it's a good place to start. Check 5th and 10th to see if the compressor is shifting, the truss mounts are good to look at too, I have found a few cracks in them in the past... A sig run will narrow it down for you if you have the equipment. Good luck