The answer has already been given, but I just wanted to add a tid-bit of followup information for the original poster since he seems fairly new to mysterious engine troubleshooting:
Typically, when I respond to a red-ball for a hot start, I do the following events (a few alterations if necessary):
#1 Of course, shut down the affected motor, #3 engine, for example.
#2 Have them start it in Null. If you get a normal start, then your Hydro-Mechanical (TD Valve) is functioning properly, since NULL takes away the engine temperature computer (TD AMP!).
If it STILL hot starts, then swap TIT Gauges with another engine's TIT gauge (so, #3 gauge is suspected bad, swap it with #4 gauge). Usually at this point, I will have them shut down another motor so I can swap gauges. Start the suspected motor (I do this in Auto, I want to see it again): If it starts fine, then obviously you will start #4, and you'll probably see a hot start. This usually only happens with Cold Starts, as usually gauges like to LOSE indication instead of GAIN indication.
If it hot starts in Auto, and Null, you probably have a TD Valve or Fuel Control Bellows issue, but do not ignore your TD Amp, as it could be sending bad signals, etc.
If it hot starts only in Auto, you most definitely have a wiring, or TD Amp problem; I like to shake wires as much as possible when testing the TD Amp. Also, testing the TD Amp does not show the problem every time. Someone here said the 130 will make a liar out of you; it's true. A lot of times, if I find no other problem, still get a hot start, and the Y-Box (TD AMP Test Set) says it's fine: I'll change the TD Amp anyway, and on several occasions it has fixed it.
If you do restarts, and it doesn't hot start again, then I'll note the wind outside, as well as keeping detailed note in the log book in expectation for it coming back; in which case I will a TD Amp more likely.
This is covered in better, more accurate detail in the 1c-130H-2-70FI-00-1-1. Block 985 if I remember correctly.