pmostafiz

Thanks for your information.

6 hours ago, pjvr99 said:

We frequently exceed duty cycle during comp wash without losing starters. I do not believe shorter motoring time

will have any effect as the highest load will occur at the start of rotation. Yes, 2J-T56-101CL-1 requires dry-out

run within 4 hours. If not, the rinse procedure must be redone.

Thanks Peter- I don't have 2J-T56-101CL-1. Can you give me a screenshot of that page.

3 hours ago, pjvr99 said:

TO's tell us 1 minute ON, 1 minute OFF, 1 minute ON, 5 minutes OFF, 1 minute ON, 30 minutes OFF ......

 

Having said that, a starter can fail at any time. I have had the starter shaft shear on 1st attempt, it has

also sheared at 40% during normal starting. During compressor wash, the load on the starter is more than

doubled so it has a much greater chance of failing. I don,t think there is much to be done in terms of 

extending life beyond what we already do .....

 

We follow a slightly modified procedure to what is stated in 2J-T56-101CL-1:

Allow detergent mix to enter engine until it is flowing from intake, then motor engine for 1 minute, allow

minimum 5 minutes soak time (or move on to next engine).

 

Open the rinse water and wait for clean water to flow from the intake, motor engine for 1 minute, wait 1 minute

or move on to next engine. Keep doing this until clean water is coming out of turbine. During the last motoring,

stop the water at +-30 seconds but keep motoring until 1 minute to vent excess fluids. Complete dry-out run

withing 4 hours

 

Thanks peter- we follow starter duty cycle. After that also we are losing starter frequently. 

1. During compressor wash, the load on the starter is more. Do you think we should motor engine 30 or 35 second instead of 1 minute to reduce load on starter?

2. Is there any T.O. reference to complete dry run within 4 hours you mentioned?

Thanks!

Three starter were damaged during last 3 compressor wash with two aircraft (Engine: T56-A-7B). We follow 40 second for washing agent and 45 second for water. Which procedure should we follow to increase starter life. 

Thanks

On 2/4/2019 at 9:51 PM, Ahmer said:

This is correction of TIT 15 to 60 °c not a cut back its miss consecpt.as per 1c-130B-2-4CL-1. But new JG 1c-130H-2-71JG-00-1 having no 15 to 60°c limit its only 800 to 840 limit of cross over TIT no correction mentioned here.

Dear Ahmed, Can you send me a screenshot of  new JG 1c-130H-2-71JG-00-1 having no 15 to 60°c limit its only 800 to 840 limit of cross over TIT no correction mentioned here.

Please send me. We are facing problem with our engine as tit correction written 15 to 60 written on 1c-130B-2-4CL-1.

TD SW Auto. I found so many time at different engine of our 4 aircraft C-130B. Is there any logical reason.

7B engine. At first start, starting to was 810 but on the same day at 2nd & 3rd start, starting tit was 780 & 760. So many time we found this happened. Can anyone tell me what is the reason behind this to reduce starting tit at 2nd start.

15 hours ago, Ahmer said:

Hello, at that time ur prop is in normal governing mode or in mechanical mode? If fluctuation is in both modes then change v/Housing filter and then valve housing. Most probably cause of valve governor. Regards

Every time during decending rpm travel 99.5 to 100.5 at all modes ( Mechanical and normal mode even synchrophaser off) with frequency. Fuel flow and tit stable and no fluctuations. Rpm stable at level flight and on ground. 

9 hours ago, pjvr99 said:

if by weather you mean cloud or rain, changes in air density going into compressor will be

detected by fcu cip & cit probes. as the throttle is already pulled back, a weak valve housing

may not be able to hold the rpm steady. 1c-130h-2-71jg-00-1 gives rpm 1.5% total travel

with throttle below flight idle, and 1.0% with throttle above x-over and more than 8000"lb

torque. valve housing change is the quicker fix, but you may end up changing fcu. as an

after-thought, check the time on dome quad-seals. 

 

 

1 hour ago, pjvr99 said:

yes, thats it. if your rpm flux is only +-0.5 you appear to be within limits. however, if the crew is

uncomfortable you will have to do something. out of curiousity, did you do a fuel governing

and pitchlock check?

Fluctuations allowable, above crossover: 1.5

Below flt idl: 1, what is allowable range of below crossover?? Because during decending throttle remain in-between flt idl and crossover.

I did not do pitchlock Ckeck. Can you describe for my understanding why it is important as everyone rpm stable and only fluctuates during decending. 

Thanks

1 hour ago, pjvr99 said:

if by weather you mean cloud or rain, changes in air density going into compressor will be

detected by fcu cip & cit probes. as the throttle is already pulled back, a weak valve housing

may not be able to hold the rpm steady. 1c-130h-2-71jg-00-1 gives rpm 1.5% total travel

with throttle below flight idle, and 1.0% with throttle above x-over and more than 8000"lb

torque. valve housing change is the quicker fix, but you may end up changing fcu. as an

after-thought, check the time on dome quad-seals. 

 

 

Thank you pjvr99. By weather I meant cloud. Every time during decending rpm travel 99.5 to 100.5 at all modes with frequency. Fuel flow and tit stable and no fluctuations. 

Did you mean bellow crossover 1.5 total travel allowable? If it is can you send me a screenshot or if you can send me to [email protected].

If fuel flow and tit stable, should I go to Fcu?

I am thinking about V/H. 

What is your opinion?

Thank you pjvr99. By weather I meant cloud. Every time during decending rpm travel 99.5 to 100.5 at all modes with frequency. Fuel flow and tit stable and no fluctuations. 

Did you mean bellow crossover 1.5 total travel allowable? If it is can you send me a screenshot or if you can send me to [email protected].

If fuel flow and tit stable, should I go to Fcu?

I am thinking about V/H. 

What is your opinion?

7b engine: #2 engine rpm fluctuation about 1% during decending and when goes through the weather. NTS gap is OK and plunger looks good. 

Any experience about this?

Thanks LKuest for your nice explanation.

51 minutes ago, Lkuest said:

It is likely your orifice cups are clogged, preventing proper filling of the barrel assembly, and therefore your atmospheric sump

Hi Lkuest- Hope you are fine. Do you have any suggestions to solve it. Will this create any problem in near future if orifice cups remain clogged?. I meant rpm or torque fluctuations. 

Is there any other way to check Hyd level with pressurized sump?

Thanks

Hello-  one of our aircraft, at #2 prop, I always find atmospheric sump empty that means I don't find any touch of Hyd with Dipstick when SVC propeller. On the other hand pressurized sump remain full. It is very confusing for me. 

Any one can tell me why this happen?

What is other best and easy way to check Hyd level except atmospheric sump?

Thanks

On 5/16/2011 at 12:39 PM, Lkuest said:

 

 

Was a bit of a joke. I figure if you can't see the outboard motors, and they make it out ok, then tailpipe vibes are a bit of a comfort item to look at. Here's what I got for a vibe.

If the vibe is in the tailpipe only, and not in the throttle or condition lever:

Check tailpipe for proper installation

Inspect front engine mounts (i'd just change them and be done with it. Sometimes the inspection lies.)

Inspect rear engine mount (already changed it, right?)

Borescope turbine (-15 engines can throw a rotor blade and you wouldn't be able to tell otherwise)

If no defects were found, then the tailpipe vibe is within limits, and I dare anyone to try to create a limit with a ruler.

If the tailpipe vibe is accompanied with a throttle or condition lever vibe, then this is what I got:

Perform a propeller loose blade inspection

Perform a propeller blade tracking inspection

Inspect prop afterbody, torque retainer assembly, and front spinner for loose or damaged components

Check propeller hub nut for proper torque (replace RGB if out of limits)

Check prop shaft vertical movement and end-play

Check rear engine mount (already changed)

Check prop balance

If no defects are found, replace propeller

These are only recommendations, of course. You can complete them in any order. Checking the wing truss mounts like Ben said couldn't hurt, as well as checking the engine sloping longerons and tie struts as well.

You should also look at the maintenance history. If either the engine or propeller have been changed just before the problem started, suspect shipping damage or improper installation of either the engine or propeller or other major structural components.

Sometimes, a throttle vibe is normal, and a tailpipe vibe is normal, it's your call. Just pretend like you are going to be flying on the plane and make sure you look at anything that would make you want to land as soon as possible.

Yes, I Agree