pjvr99

The only check for defective prop brake is in-flight shutdown. If it rotates, it has failed. On the ground there is no

check. The prop can be rotate back- and forwards.

Prop brake is released during initial start at about 5%rpm by oil pressure, and stays released until engine stops

again

FTR I was taught the following, no matter which engine is being started:

at 60% the call out is "60% - release" to release starter button

then either "Series" or "start light out" whichever order to confirm that speed switch has 

disconnected ignition relay and put the fuel pumps to series, and that the starter valve has

closed. Starter light still on at LSGI would require some really quick troubleshooting and engine

shutdown if it is determined start valve is stuck open ...

if there is no RPM increase at all, the signal from the Fuel governing switch is not getting to the valve housing. That is where  you need to start looking .....

most likely

Never tow with scissors connected (beaten into us as apprentices). There is no requirement in towing job guide. However, there are several cautions and warnings to deplete system pressures, and ensure ground checkout valve is in normal (up) position before towing ....

Quite normal. The starter is released at a nominal 60% rpm and the speed switch releases the parra valve at a nominal 65% rpm. Factors affecting these lights are:

actual engine acceleration rate,

actual rpm starter is released at,

closing rate of starter valve,

sensitivity of starter sensing switch,

condition of starter sensing lines,

actual rpm speed switch releases parra valve,

response time of parra valve,

efficiency of fuel pumps and,

response/efficiency of bypass valve in resetting.

Only requirement for sec fuel light is to come on before 65%

and be off once engine has stabilized at LSGI, and not come on

again at any speed or power setting.

First one sounds like a bad fuel cluster, also pull the combustion liner and check for coking.

Second could be a number of things: fuel cluster, speed switch, oil pressure sequencing switch, broken wire, dry solder joint on a cannon plug, bad 110% solenoid ..... be fun to debug it on test stand.

On my test cell engine has to be complete, meaning transfer bar installed and set up. However, because throttle and condition is electric servos we only rig from coordinator to engine. Final rig when installing on the wing normally requires some adjustment of the gimbal cables. Always make sure throttle rig is good on 0°, 34° & 90° (rev, fi  & to) before attempting condition/feather rig

Feather doesnt have a stop in coordinator. Feather stop is the transfer bar frame .....

If you're rigging on the wing, try pulling out the gimbal and rigging the engine, then reconnect and match using the gimbal cables

Ok, we hooked up the starter air duct and starter sensing line to the scav filter in and outlet transducers. We use an AM32A-60A power unit to start the engine. In the first vid, we just motor the engine over to maximum rpm. In the second, it is a full start to lowspeed ground idle .....

I dont really see how a sensing line pressure equal to the delivery pressure is possible. I suspect the 36.5 to 42 psi may be from using engine pressure of 70 to 80psi, with the starter valve modulating the pressure to 36 to 42psi ....

In other words, the SP213 card may be wrong. Hope this helps ....

Let me see if I can check this on the test cell ..... I can rig a direct gauge to check it

I understand what you're saying, having read through the card. It just seems that youre trying to do individual component testing on parts that should be checked on a bench. 

The only places i know of that uses "hg is the cabin pressure differential, engine lighthouse area and the apu bleed air regulator. All other pressures are psi. 

For conversion 14.69psi = 29.91"hg

If you're having very specific starting problems, this may be a way to troubleshoot. As long as APU holds pressure above 32psi and start time is between 39 and 61 seconds, there is no reason to do this procedure .....

With cc pack on bleed air pressure should be around 35ps (32psi minimum), both packs should max out egt and pressure as low as 10psi, and unloaded should be above 38psi. Check air pressure regulator for 18.5 to 19.5psi

Assuming load control valve and thermostat have been replaced, you are probably looking at erroded compressor, and therefore apu change

Only the tip and deicing boot is painted, rest is bare metal

Dont know about Gander ...... The SAAF back in the 80's did one in about 4hrs including

the engine run. 

at sea level, a 0/low time compressor will make 80 to 85psi at normal ground idle. This increases 

as throttle is advanced towards take off an TIT increases. The highest I have ever seen was 130psi.

This was a 0 time engine where the CDP fell in "high" zone of the compressor graph. Compressor

performance is based on OAT and pressure altitude.

You will need to do a complete overtorque inspection of the QEC kit and truss mounts, and

also complete overtemp inspection and borescope the turbine, IGV and combustion liners

before attempting to start that engine again

1 hour ago, Rzouga said:

I will try to do that next time, but what is the yellow box check, do you mean TD test set??

yes

Cool. Ok start is perfect. LSGI looks like like a low time, very strong engine, but

thats where things get hazy. NGI should be 580 to 600.

After lights out TIT should be 740 to 780. It does look look like the FCU may have

shifted rich, but you may also have a TD system cutting back too much fuel. Before

messing with FCU, remove and inspect all thermocouples - replace as required. Make

sure engine rigging is spot-on. Carry out  yellow box check.

CIT bellows can be adjusted on flight line (if lead seal is still present on FCU) - 1 flat

decrease (clockwise) is +- 25°C. This will affect the fuel flow across the entire

schedule, so it may be necessary to reset NULL orifice.

Excel file I made some time ago, performance accurate to about 0.2% most of the time.

Perf PPC v2.1.xlsx

23 hours ago, Lkuest said:

Only thing I would add to pjvr99's response is consider resealing the low pitch stop too. I'd almost bet money the squeal check would fail.

yes, forgot about lps

bad valve housing, or internal leak from dome seals, pitchlock regulator, or

prop retaining nut seals

Also need LSGI and NGI TIT please

what is NULL start TIT? what is TIT before correction light out? what

is rich/lean? where is NULL orifice set?

I need exact numbers .....