Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by pjvr99

  1. First one sounds like a bad fuel cluster, also pull the combustion liner and check for coking. Second could be a number of things: fuel cluster, speed switch, oil pressure sequencing switch, broken wire, dry solder joint on a cannon plug, bad 110% solenoid ..... be fun to debug it on test stand.
  2. On my test cell engine has to be complete, meaning transfer bar installed and set up. However, because throttle and condition is electric servos we only rig from coordinator to engine. Final rig when installing on the wing normally requires some adjustment of the gimbal cables. Always make sure throttle rig is good on 0°, 34° & 90° (rev, fi & to) before attempting condition/feather rig
  3. Feather doesnt have a stop in coordinator. Feather stop is the transfer bar frame ..... If you're rigging on the wing, try pulling out the gimbal and rigging the engine, then reconnect and match using the gimbal cables
  4. Ok, we hooked up the starter air duct and starter sensing line to the scav filter in and outlet transducers. We use an AM32A-60A power unit to start the engine. In the first vid, we just motor the engine over to maximum rpm. In the second, it is a full start to lowspeed ground idle ..... I dont really see how a sensing line pressure equal to the delivery pressure is possible. I suspect the 36.5 to 42 psi may be from using engine pressure of 70 to 80psi, with the starter valve modulating the pressure to 36 to 42psi .... In other words, the SP213 card may be wrong. Hope this helps ....
  5. Let me see if I can check this on the test cell ..... I can rig a direct gauge to check it
  6. I understand what you're saying, having read through the card. It just seems that youre trying to do individual component testing on parts that should be checked on a bench. The only places i know of that uses "hg is the cabin pressure differential, engine lighthouse area and the apu bleed air regulator. All other pressures are psi. For conversion 14.69psi = 29.91"hg
  7. If you're having very specific starting problems, this may be a way to troubleshoot. As long as APU holds pressure above 32psi and start time is between 39 and 61 seconds, there is no reason to do this procedure .....
  8. With cc pack on bleed air pressure should be around 35ps (32psi minimum), both packs should max out egt and pressure as low as 10psi, and unloaded should be above 38psi. Check air pressure regulator for 18.5 to 19.5psi Assuming load control valve and thermostat have been replaced, you are probably looking at erroded compressor, and therefore apu change
  9. Only the tip and deicing boot is painted, rest is bare metal
  10. Dont know about Gander ...... The SAAF back in the 80's did one in about 4hrs including the engine run.
  11. at sea level, a 0/low time compressor will make 80 to 85psi at normal ground idle. This increases as throttle is advanced towards take off an TIT increases. The highest I have ever seen was 130psi. This was a 0 time engine where the CDP fell in "high" zone of the compressor graph. Compressor performance is based on OAT and pressure altitude.
  12. You will need to do a complete overtorque inspection of the QEC kit and truss mounts, and also complete overtemp inspection and borescope the turbine, IGV and combustion liners before attempting to start that engine again
  13. Cool. Ok start is perfect. LSGI looks like like a low time, very strong engine, but thats where things get hazy. NGI should be 580 to 600. After lights out TIT should be 740 to 780. It does look look like the FCU may have shifted rich, but you may also have a TD system cutting back too much fuel. Before messing with FCU, remove and inspect all thermocouples - replace as required. Make sure engine rigging is spot-on. Carry out yellow box check. CIT bellows can be adjusted on flight line (if lead seal is still present on FCU) - 1 flat decrease (clockwise) is +- 25°C. This will affect the fuel flow across the entire schedule, so it may be necessary to reset NULL orifice.
  14. Excel file I made some time ago, performance accurate to about 0.2% most of the time. Perf PPC v2.1.xlsx
  15. bad valve housing, or internal leak from dome seals, pitchlock regulator, or prop retaining nut seals
  16. what is NULL start TIT? what is TIT before correction light out? what is rich/lean? where is NULL orifice set? I need exact numbers .....
  17. no requirement for throttles to line up below cross-over: ONLY above
  18. Static leak. 1st thing to do is remove RGB fwd mag plug and ADH bottom mag plug. Leave them open for 2hrs or so, then see which one is still dripping. If ADH, start by replacing P/S filter. After that replace main oil pump. Lockheed Service News V18 N3 gives an excellent description of the problem and trouble shooting
  19. ye i dont think system is de-activated. even though we dont have it on our birds, many QEC kits have the wiring and c/plug. It's a standard check for us in test cell if a new engine will not rotate when starter button is pressed to then turn on nacelle pre-heat. If it then rotates, we know the shop got the starter and pre-heat c/plugs swapped around
  20. Yes, because it is flooding through the delivery nozzles and tubes as though the engine were running
  21. Main oil pump: pressure regulator poppet valve has cracked
  22. not sure why mech is ok, but it sounds like internal leak, maybe dome seals, pitchlock regulator seals, prop retaining nut seals.
  • Create New...