pjvr99

Fly with a splitline leak...

RGB or compressor? Oil or air?

I saw these pics a few months back. My thoughts run in the lines of

bombs 'n bullets - if that's what bears do, lets make like a shepherd

and get the flock outa here!!!!!!!!

45 minutes from home - NO!!

Somewhere nasty, with bombs and bullets - do whatever you need to do to

get the f#$k outta there. Service, quick start on the threshhold, shutdown

after established in climb, restart just before landing.

Ever take some cling-wrap plastic and cover the toilet bowl? It was a real mess, as the victim

had gastro ......

Try getting a T/C tester 6685-01-569-7682 R/R P/N 23076502. Runs about 90 seconds per test. Still gotta' pull 'em though.

I've got a better chance of ......... ah well, if I don't buy the ticket, I won't win the lottery. Tnx for the PNo

The problem with using the toilet bowl was SOMETIMES the pin just didn't get pushed in all the way and we all know what happens when that opens with the aux pump running. Can you spell mess.

Been there, done that, bought the beers for the crew! :-)

Propwash, elbow grease, various sizes of sky hooks, and the old

favourite ....... a long wait - usually around 3 hours :rofl:

Welcome from the Magic Kingdom. Some days the HerkyBirds are going to drive you

nuts, but they'll always take you home safely.

Welcome again

PJ

For the most part, thermocouples either work or they don't. I wouldn't know the difference

from one manufacturer to another. A specification is created by the designers/engineers, and

it's up to the manufacturer to manufacture to specification. Once in a while, a bad batch

slips through and we go through a phase of cracked casings, disintegrating ceramic, what-

ever. I can tell you about hunting for the 1 or 2 broken thermocouples out of 18, causing

problems during starting and take off, but that's what I get paid to do :-)

Glad to answer any other questions you may have. BTW, welcome to HerkyBirds

PJ

hey peter, it's a long time ago, I had to change my nickname:p, forgot the other one.

What I did when I was working on the test bench is try to narrow the gap of start temp without toying with the TD AMP, it is adjusted with the Tec Manual, 820°C start temp, 1077°C max Temp, 566°C bias, 1077°C slope

1) We sometimes had complaintes that the TIT on engine 4-2-1 are lower than the one of engine 3. So I explained that we fire up with bleed air press of an APU (GTC) 40PSI and that an engine 4 -2-1 are fired up with bleed press of at least 120PSI so this a diffrence

2) CIT adjustment says that we have to measure the bellows!

3) May we readjust the CIT if C-130 is @ homebase o the origenal pos?

4) I still don't have any doc refer or defenition what a cold start is:cool:

the belgian guy

quote: attitude is a little thing that makes a big diffrence!

Winston Churchill

Hey Herky, I remember. I mark the bellows by making a note on the FCU with a 'white-out' pen, and also annotate it in the engine/aircraft doc package for future reference.

Following excerpts from TO 2J-T56-56 SWP 058 01

Start 780oC Min./810oC Max. (Desired)

750oC Min./830oC Max. (Normal)

We experience a shift in start temps also when moving around the country. If we move from a low altitude high temperature location to a high altitude low temperature location, we have a shift of start temps. Sometimes, it becomes a problem, so we make adjustments for it.

According to our friends at Rolls Royce (Allison), we adjust the TD amp potentiometer only to limit the start temps, not to "control" them. We control start temperatures with the "null orifice" adjustment on the TD valve:

Quote: After changing an engine or replacing a temperature datum valve, or if a previous

start exceeded 830°C (Refer to 72-0, Table IV), adjust the datum valve to give a maximum starting temperature of between 750 and 820°C.

Allison and Lockheed has stated in other locations that start temps below 750 can be acceptable as long as the start was smooth and within time limits.

When the start temperature has shifted and you find that a null orifice adjustment does not fix the problem, then Allison gives us a possible fix at the fuel control bellows.

Quote: B. Adjustment of Inlet Temperature Compensating Bellows

(1) Adjust retaining adjustment nut at compensating unit housing clockwise facing

rear of engine to decrease start temperature.

(2) One flat of the adjustment nut is equal to approximately 25 degrees TIT.

CAUTION: DO NOT ADJUST MORE THAN TWO FLATS. THIS ADJUSTMENT

SHOULD BE MADE ONLY AFTER ALL OTHER POSSIBLE CAUSES

HAVE BEEN THOROUGHLY INVESTIGATED. GET ENGINE HISTORICAL

RECORDS TO REFLECT NUMBER OF FLATS ADJUSTED

MAXIMUM POWER RUN REQUIRED AFTER ADJUSTMENT.

Correct. Bear in mind that it impossible to perfectly set up the fuel/TD system to cover all possibilities simultaneously. You need to set it up for your NORMAL base of operations. I like to have the NULL/AUTO start TIT as close as possible, balanced against RICH/LEAN values, 10°C - 30°C on the lean side. I dislike sending an engine out of the cell with the NULL orifice above INCREASE 2, or below DECREASE 2. Therefore, an adjustment on the CIT is sometimes necessary.

I interpret a cold start as peak TIT below 750°C, when the engine has already been started and shut down within the last 15 minutes.

When you start messing with the TD amp pots, you start a whole new set of problems - just set the amp (yellow box) and go with it.

In response to the original question though, it is only necessary to measure the bellows assembly when it being replaced.

Similar - Hamilton Sundstrand 54H60-77

When shutting down from NGI, a lot more fuel is trapped in the fuel nozzles. This then runs

out, evaporates and the additives then coke up the air holes. Also I've found an engine run

at LSGI 2minutes, is quicker to continue work on than if shut down from normal. Other

consideration is oil temperature and oil scavenge.

LSGI has better cooling than NGI. I haven't yet found an explanation why. Also the oil

scavenge system is most efficient at LSGI. This can often be verified by watching the oil qty

gauge during up-shift/down-shift. Shutting down from normal may leave more oil in the RGB

and ADH, leading to over-servicing the oil tank later.

AC signal of around 20volts. 70Hz = 100%

Lighthouse pressure not exceed 11"Hg a - may lead to oil dumping in flight, high oil

temperatures

T.O. 2J-T56-56 SWP 058 01 Table 3

Inner combustion casing pressure (diffuser vent)

- Acceptable pressure above ambient as measured at the diffuser

vent during all periods of stabilized operation is 11 inch Hg. for -15

and 6.0"Hg. for -7B

- Rear compressor and front turbine bearing seal areas.

Had similar thing on 2 different engines recently; 1st one had a faulty parallel valve, the

other had a bad ignition relay. My guess is the parallel valve .....

NATOPS1, if those numbers are correct you will have 0.5% overread installed on the speed switch - more than accurate enough to get you home. You also have the generator freq meter to cross reference. Correctly said, your biggest problem will be getting wires to it

Because that is the speed of the pad via the particular reduction gearing, NOT the prop speed

NATOPS1 correct! T56-56 states the only check for propbrake serviceability is inflight shutdown - no rotation allowed! You can try flushing it out (followed by a ground run), then FCF again. Being ground-bound, I have no knowledge of speeds and altitudes

PJVR99, well said. I completely agree with you and I apologize for flying off the handle a bit there.

Not at all Mongo, you just got there first. I am a member on several other aviation forums, where this kind of cr@p is standard practice. However, it does nothing for the forum, except to drive people away. I would not like to lose these repositories of knowledge, simply because of some arrogance and ignorance.

Guys 'n girls, let's keep it nice. At the end of the day nobody knows everything, and a helping hand is better than a facefull of snot. If you disagree with someone, give your reasons; open a proper discussion, start another thread, if needed.

Keep it safe, and keep 'em flyin''

PJ

Hydro101, as someone who has been in aviation a long time, I have learned to treat everyone with respect, and to treat their suggestions with the same respect I would like my suggestions to receive. On this board, we are all professionals, and as such, need to treat each with due respect. Talon1 has on previous occasions proven his knowledge and ability.

WRT the items you picked out, these were things that were specifically looked at as remote, but plausable, possibilities. Some items were reset or replaced, all of which added to the sum of the overall repair. No idea, thought or gut-feel should ever be ignored when faced with a challenge of this nature.

Have a great day

PJ

Trev, our PDM regularly moves the birds around without engines just using

the nose-weights. Alternately, if the roller system is installed, a big concrete

block just behind the 245 bulkhead will also do

Performance is done at 1050°C or 19600"lb, whichever comes first. In winter zero-time

engines often get 19600 at around 1025/1030°C, giving performance between 108 - 110%

Hhmmmm ..... my calculator doesn't want to do -7 engine, but 19600"lb at ISA on

an A15 would only be 97.3%

NC97, send me your CV, or check the Boeing website, or www.flightglobal.com. I've been here

6 years. Contact me via e-mail [email protected] for more info

Have a great day

PJ

Been part of the work crew once and seen it done several times. Most important thing is shoring

the empennage before removing anything. Once the item is removed, make a template of 1/4"

aluminium ..... job shouldn't take more than 2 - 3 weeks