pjvr99

Check for wear on gimbal bearings and bushings, check pressure bulkhead fairleads, check valve housing cover.

Bob, no real difference to what I said. However, having had a few hours to think, your thermal camera idea may have a lot of merit .......

True, also spraying the suspect area(s) with NDI penetrant developer will give you a good idea without the risk of a man-on-stand check

Can't seem to find it, so I'm asking ...... Maybe start a separate thread ......

Lucky man. Would've played hell chasing a broken thermocouple or thermocouple harness. Good find .......

Wrong!! A messed up TD valve has done this to me before. Cost going back over 5 TD amps to verify they were actually good. For the same price, sticky FCU bellows can have you chasing you tail It just did! If your 5th & 10th bleed valves are closed, you should hit 810° at about 35% rpm in AUTO, at which point the engine will bog down if the TD system is strong. Alternately, if you are in NULL, you'll be passing 900°C before you could get the condition lever to STOP or FEATHER. Don't be fooled by the obvious - double check EVERYTHING, look at (and see) what your gauges are telling you

C130B/E/H & L100 - South African Air Force, SAFAIR, Royal Saudi Air Force C160Z TransAll - South African Air Force Aermacchi MB326M & KC - South African Air Force Mirage IIIBZ & CZ - South African Air Force English Electric Canberra (B57) - South African Air Force Boeing 727, 737 & MD80 - SAFAIR Boeing 727, 737 - INTERAIR

Trev, If the nozzle is coked or damaged in some way, the fuel blows back through the nozzle. It is a shroud that allows air to mix with the fuel before injecting into the combustion can. This 'blowback' occurs in the diffuser, and therefore easily taken into the 14th stage bleed ducts Invert aircraft - error will go away :rofl:

1010 Over the years had a number of high performers up to 113%, but none of the problems you mentioned. We simply followed the seal break-in procedure in TO 2J-T56-56 SWP 058 03 Sect 13

Hey guys, Got a bit of a head-scratcher. What is the difference between GTC model GTC85-71, and GTC85-71A? What T.O. no's are relevant to each? What part numbers are valid for GTC85-71A? Tnx PJ

Check out NTS function on the RGB

Cable and control-rod fair leads. Pressure bulkhead cannon plugs. If all else fails, pressurize the aircraft, have breathing apparatus for your crew inside, and pop a smoke grenade .......

Good bit of troubleshooting 1010, and good feedback, too.

I have recently had a rash of extremely high AUTO starts, AUTO T/O TIT, and fails NORMAL LIMITING check. All are using solid state amplifiers. TD amp is driving the valve to PUT condition. I have also had an instance where the Y-box leadset was damaged. Y-box shows everything on the numbers, but on startup AUTO TIT is 830°C, take off will happily go past 1083° with the throttle still well short of the stop. NORMAL LIMITING check just overtemps with no TIT cut-back. RICH/LEAN check shows a 50 - 60°C lean Before I figured out what the problem was, I recalibrated the cells indication system, installed my thermocouple swap-over relay, and generally spent a lot of time chasing my tail. Also slaved in various relay boxes, J3 leads, on one occasion a coordinator, and another occasion a TD VALVE, and even thermocouples, t/c harnesses, T-blocks, and y-lead.

Anybody using a portable vibration analyzer?

Thanx htf, but no good. As per FEDLOG

Hey HerkyWorld Looking for valid PartNo or NSN for compressor wash carts. Mine have reached the point where they can no longer be repaired. Any assistance is greatly appreciated PJ

Sounds like a bus power problem. Look for a dry joint on a cannon plug pin, or chafing in a 'P'-clamp ....... just spent 2 days chasing an RGB oil pressure flux problem. Gauge would start flickering at about 850°C TIT and get worse as the throttle was moved to T/O. Turned out to be one of the signal wires chafing against the QEC frame, as the QEC twists in anti-torque. Your problem sounds similar, increased 'G' in the turn, something flexing, who knows. Hope you find it easily!!

DanMan,I have the same question as TB400 - is that a CELTECH cell? I run a T21D in Jeddah, KSA. The torque cal is done exactly the same as for the aircraft. A few years ago the computer cr@pped out, and I modified the cell with parallel analogue gauges. First thing I noticed when we got the computer running again, was a large difference in torque at high power settings. It took several weeks of tweaking the calibration files to get the 2 displays to read the same

Not sure what oil from the FCU drain indicates as the fuel pump drain is also drained on that line. What you're indicating with the RPM is a valve housing governor failure. The prop starts governing at 55 - 60° on the coordinator. Alternately, the synchrophaser is also known to screw things up, even when master is not selected. Also a bad tach generator, or prop pulse generator could be the culprit

First problem is starting an engine with ATM on - don't!! It's in the tech data ........ As to the surging, this is caused by the ACCELERATION thermostat setting being the same or lower than the LOAD CONTROL thermostat setting. LOAD CONTROL is set at 649°C - 663°C, while ACCELERATION is 677°C - 688°C. Remember: simply installing new thermostats also won't fix the problem, as they are factory set at about 590°C. You need to get the GTC onto a test stand .....

These things have been giving problems for more than 50 years. The P3 props use a pressure switch on the primary pump to give indication

When doing the droop check, do any of the slaves INCREASE rpm?

I'm with NATOPS1 on this. While new VH may temporarily 'fix' the problem, I think it going to haunt you. Another thought came up: when the generator out lights come on, do the lights remain on, or just momentary flicker? Do the generators remain on line?

Sounds like a problem on the main and essential AC busses. Generator out light should only come on when the frequency falls below 380Hz (95%rpm). If the rpm actually fell that low during a throttle back from 1077° to 1010°, it would be my guess you'd more than likely have a flame out ....... in which case the generator out lights would be on :-(