Crawll31 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Having a problem finding a bleed air leak within the nacelle when the engine (-15) is in reverse for a slightly longer period of time then normal. Felt around each clamp the best I could with the engine running with no joy. The problem with that is you can't hear the leak for obvious reasons and it is quite the challenge to feel the leak with all the air blowing around you. I am all out of ideas on how to troubleshoot. Any ideas or past experiences with this issue is greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NATOPS1 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Do you get a good bleed air leak check? Compare the time to your good engines. Are you convinced your leak is in the diffuser or F, Y stack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crawll31 Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Do you get a good bleed air leak check? Compare the time to your good engines. Are you convinced your leak is in the diffuser or F, Y stack? At this point I am not convinced it is one particular place over another. Comparing the bleed down times is a great idea, I'll get back to you on the results. About all I have to go on is that it only shows when the engine is in reverse for an extended period of time then the a normal full stop landing. Once the prop comes out of beta and normal airflow through the nacelle resumes, the light extinguishes. I am away from home station and have little resources to fabricate a plug to be able to pressurize all the nacelle ducting independently from the rest of the bleed sys with some shop air. I am going to head back out to the plane to troubleshoot some more and let you know what I find. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lkuest Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Could be a long shot, but you might consider an overheat detector might be lying to you. Also, if you can't pinpoint a specific clamp, you might just re-torque all of them for good measure and see if the problem goes away. Just as NATOPS1 says, I've had good luck troubleshooting air leaks by noting the difference between a bleed down with the problem motor and a bleed down with all of the other motors. In this case, that might pinpoint which side of the check valve your leak is on. Also, depending on your circumstances, an infrared camera could work wonders on a job like that. I understand you're not at home station, but if your plane isn't flying anywhere, an infrared camera might be part of your requested supplies kit. It will most definitely help you pinpoint those little leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronc Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Crawll31, May be a long shot but I had a similar problem and I found it on a man on the stand run. Turns out one of the corner of the gaskets where the 10th stage acceleration bleed air valves mount to the compressor case had blown out and the leak would only be enough to cause the Nacelle overheat when the air was disrupted because the prop was in reverse. Worth a look but watch your hands, good luck Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lkuest Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Ronc, Have you seen this problem with the new gaskets, or was it with the old copper ones? I haven't had any problems with the acceleration bleed pad gaskets since we went to the new material, so I'd be interested if you've had issues with the new material. I have seen many bleed pad gaskets blown out when they were copper though. Many times all we saw was either a low power engine, or copper laying around the bottom of the nacelle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
U.A.E Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 Did u check manifuled bleed air check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjvr99 Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 My first thought would be a defective detector, but also a wire chafing somewhere could be the culprit. NATOPS alsohas a good point with the window gaskets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenten Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 In two similar cases we found the cause was related to a deteriorated fuel nozzle gasket.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herky400M Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Maybe you have a splitline leak on your compressor, a heat deflector will do the job.Check your electrical system as stated, humidity can be a bad player. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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